Travertines And History
The best thing about living in Turkiye is being surrounded by ancient history and incredible natural beauty. It gives more than a lifetime’s worth of opportunities to go exploring and learn about different civilisations through the ages.
For regular readers, you’ll have seen my exploits in Sanliurfa and Gobeklitepe in the snow in December and January, as well as my regular trips to Miletus and Apollon Temple in Didim. My annual Muzecart has paid for itself a thousand times over. You will also know something unexpected always crops up!
The latest trip was very special as I was joined by two of my greatest friends, David and Rachel, who had come to stay for a few weeks from Saudi Arabia. It had been far too long since we saw each other, but from the moment I picked them up from Bodrum-Milas Airport, it felt as though we’d seen each other every single day. Great friendships have that effect. There will be a couple more blogs giving an insight into the wonderful time they spent here.
The highlight of their time here was always going to be our trip to Pamukkale and Hierapolis. There would be a lot of driving on Saturday morning and Sunday afternoon, but I love my road trips.
We set off ahead of schedule on Saturday for the two and a half hour drive. We’d aimed to get to the Tripolis Hotel (www.tripolishotel.com) and have a chilled out afternoon by the pool before going exploring early on Sunday morning. It’s far too hot at this time of year to spend the afternoon in the scorching sun. An early morning exploring was far more sensible.
We were making decent time when we stopped at a service station just over halfway. It was when the only glitch of the trip occurred. I noticed there was a screw in one of the tyres. There was no choice but to change it for the spare. Dave (have I ever mentioned everyone needs a Dave?) did most of the work, for which I’m eternally grateful.
There’s always an issue when you change a wheel. The alloys are great, but the spare was a steel rim. Instead of enjoying the rest of the journey through the mountains, I was on edge worrying about the spare wheel. Listening to a Terry Pratchett audiobook helped a lot. I needn’t have worried. My trusty Dacia Duster was more than up to the task.
We arrived at the Tripolis Hotel safely. The staff, especially Yunus at reception, were superb. Rachel explained the predicament with the tyre as I went to park the car. Yunus told us not to worry, as he called a mechanic. I left my keys with him. He called me with the price of the tyre repair, which was incredibly cheap. The mechanic took the car and promised to return it as soon as possible.
It took longer than expected, but the reason became clear. We had been very lucky. One of the wheel nuts had totally sheared, and another was minutes away from doing the same. I’d been right to drive very carefully after we’d changed the wheel. The mechanic had driven a 40km round trip to buy new wheel nuts. The price he charged couldn’t have covered his fuel costs. I will always be eternally grateful. He even checked all the other wheels, so I regained my confidence in driving the car.
Yunus called me when the car came back. He had paid out of his own pocket. Needless to say, I transferred the money straight into his account. This was service well above and beyond. A fantastic hotel with amazing staff.
The car issue being resolved meant I could relax by the pool with Dave and Rachel. The view was amazing with the Pamukkale travertines in the distance. A beautiful pool and amazing views certainly helped remove any stress.
I fulfilled one of my dreams that night. I saw the sunset over the white calcite travertines. The colour seemed to change by the minute. Surprisingly, it wouldn’t be the biggest take my breath away period of my trip.
An early night turned into 11pm as the hotel had live music. Guests were enjoying dancing by the pool. It created a real sense of fun. In a strange way, it was the perfect end to the day.
I woke up to the sound of the first prayer at the mosque. It’s a sound I’ve got used to over the years. It meant dawn was nearly upon us. I headed to my balcony with a cup of tea (I’d already run out of coffee!) and was met with a surprise. Ten hot air balloons were about to rise into the sky. It was an incredible sight as the sun rose, as did the balloons. I couldn’t have dreamed how amazing it looked. Another bucket-list moment.
I’m surprised I’m going to admit this in public, but I suffer from extreme vertigo. It’s a horrible and debilitating affliction that I’ve spent years trying to overcome. It means there are things I can’t do. Even the thought of going up in a hot-air balloon brings me out in cold sweats. It also means I can’t go close to the edge of drops. I lose all depth perception and curl up in a ball. I have the deepest sympathy for anyone else who suffers.
It meant getting up close and personal with the travertines would be an insurmountable challenge. However, I did better than expected. Dave did an amazing job of getting photos whilst Rachel looked after me in the most understanding way. I ended up seeing far more than I could have imagined. I had fulfilled my dream, though. I’d seen the sunset and sunrise over the travertines. It was all I wanted.
My focus was on a passion I have. I wanted to see the ruins at Hierapolis, which overlook the travertines. I love ancient history, and this was a must-see on my bucket list. It did not disappoint.
Hierapolis was a Hellenistic Greek city in Phrygia, in southwestern Anatolia. It was founded in the 3rd century BC, on the site of a Phrygian cult centre of the Anatolian mother goddess Cybele. It was famous for its hot springs, its high quality wool fabrics and dyes, and as the birthplace of the Stoic philosopher Epictetus.
The hot springs have been used as a spa since at least the 2nd century BCE, with many patrons retiring or dying there as evidenced by the large necropolis filled with tombs, most famously that of Marcus Aurelius Ammianos which bears a relief depicting the earliest known example of a crank and rod mechanism, and the Tomb of Philip the Apostle.
We walked to the ancient pool, also known as Cleopatra’s Pool, even though there is no evidence she ever visited. Welcome to ancient history. Much of it involves speculation and myth. We will probably never know the whole truth. I certainly won’t. I’m an amateur and not an archaeologist after all.
Dave and Rachel went for a dip in the 35C natural springs. I didn’t as sharing what was a small space with that many people held no appeal. It was the only disappointment on the whole trip. Yes, I’ve now seen it. Give me Balikligol in Sanliurfa every day of the week. The best thing was a decent cup of coffee. There is an extra charge to go for a dip and I couldn’t, and still can’t, see why they have made something that looks as though it was built yesterday a centrepiece. In truth, I wouldn’t bother. I certainly wouldn’t use the mosquito infested showers!
It was, however, the only disappointment. There is a golf buggy service on the doorstep. £10 each for a tour of the ruins. It was the best decision of the trip as we saw far more than we could ever have hoped for.
Hierapolis is huge. There is so much to see, although I’m am becoming concerned I am developing such an interest in necropolis. I find the tombs enthralling. Who were these people? What were their lives like? I can’t help my imagination running wild. I find the concept of civilisations from the past incredibly interesting.
We spent time seeing the theatre, the necropolis, and what looks very like a sacred way including the stops for the nymphs, and other sacred stops. Dave did take a somewhat unhealthy interest in the ancient latrines!
I will let the photos tell the rest of the story.
We were dropped next to the car park at the South Gate after our golf buggy adventure. A browse around the shop and the mandatory purchase of fridge magnets and we were on our way home before the sun and heat became too overbearing.
The journey passed easily. I actually enjoyed driving it this time.
Can I recommend a trip to the Pamukkale travertines? Yes. Would I go just for them again? Probably not. I’ve seen them now. Would I visit Hierapolis again? Yes. Many times. It’s inspiring and huge. There’s so much more I know I will discover. I’d also stay at the Tripolis Hotel again.
A huge thank you to Dave and Rachel for helping me fulfil this dream. You both know you are more than friends. You are family.
Also thank you both for letting me use all the photos. I have no idea which of us took each one, but I know you both did a better job of taking them than me.
Thank you to Yunus, and everyone else, at the Tripolis Hotel. You were all amazing.
Finally, thank you to Frankie for all your help and advice. I owe you one.
TTFN
Max and The Stray Army
Comments